Shima Onsen

About | Access | Area Map | Attractions

About

Shima Onsen is a quiet and sleepy hot springs town deep in the mountains of Gunma Prefecture (Shima Onsen; 四万温泉, which means "Forty-thousand Hot Springs" and it is said that the hot spring cures 40,000 types of illnesses). Its about 3-4 hours from Tokyo and one of the large four most famous hot spring towns in Gunma Prefecture (the four largest being Ikaho Onsen, Kusatsu Onsen, Minakami Onsen and Shima Onsen). There are over 40 separated hot spring sources available in Shima Onsen, which supply water to the ryokans and public bath houses. Shima Onsen also has a reputation for being one of the oldest hot spring towns in Japan and was the first hot spring resort area become a "Nationally Certified" Onsen due to its potential health benefits. The spring water in Shima Onsen flows clear and has a smooth, soft feel. The concentration of minerals in the water leaves white deposits along the riverbank.

Although Shima Onsen has been well known by the Japanese for hundreds of years, recently it has gained world-wide recognition because of a bridge and ryokan that served as a model for scenes in the popular animated movie "Spirited Away". The beautiful red bridge leads across a river to the entrance of Sekizenkan Ryokan which claims to be the oldest ryokan hot springs in Japan! Sekizenkan Ryokan was built in 1691, remains largely unaltered and has been designated an important prefectural cultural asset. The structure is an incredible "Trip Through Time" with an Edo era main building (wooden construction and paper sliding doors) and a composite of other structures, buildings and baths in a maze-like configuration. The main bath is a Taisho-era Romanesque style bathhouse (high ceilings, tiled flooring and arched windows) along with a newer luxurious outdoor bath surrounded by pine forest. Of course staying at the Sekizenkan is an unforgettable experience (Check availability at Sekizenkan Ryokan) but you can also just do a "Day Trip" which includes just enjoying the baths for the day (from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. | Adult: 1,200 yen) or being allowed to walk around inside the Ryokan (300 yen). Visit the official Sekizenkan Day Trips page to get details information.

Shima Onsen is spread out along the Shima River Valley and has three town areas, each about half a mile (1 kilometer) away from the other. The "Center Town" area is the main area of Shima Onsen where many ryokan and hotels are located, including the Sekizenkan Ryokan and has an outdated, Japanese-retro feel. In "Center Town" there are also some small shops, nostalgic Japanese type game arcades, foot baths and hot spring drinking fountains. The "Lower Town" area is pretty quiet and has many nice ryokan along the river. The river in this area creates the Kamagacuhi Gorge (a mini gorge/abyss) and is pleasant to walk along in the evening. The "Upper Town" area is near Okushima Lake and is quite spread out. The Yakushido Temple along with the Gomuso No Yu Public Bath is in this area and is dedicated to the town's founding. Shima Onsen is quite spread out. If you plan on staying at a ryokan, relaxing there and maybe walking around the immediate area you will not need a car but if you want to visit other areas of the town as well at the Shimagawa Dam and some waterfalls, a car is recommended.

Far away from everything, Shima Onsen sits in a beautiful natural backdrop of mountains, waterfalls, a reservoir lake and a river that winds through the town. In the summer, spring and fall you can get out and visit various attractions and areas around the town (and maybe even catch a festival if the timing is right) but in the winter the "action" slows down to a crawl... this is great if you just want to get away and relax, sit in the hot springs and eat great meals but don't plan on too much "excitement".

Access

from Tokyo

• by Train
  • by Special Ltd. Express "Tokyuu Kusatsu" (特急草津) + Bus - Costs around 6,200 yen and takes about 3 hours.
    This is the easiest way to get to Shima Onsen BUT there are only 2 trains per day on weekdays and 3 trains per day on weekends.
    1. Ride this train from Ueno station to Nakanojou Station (5,270 yen | 1 h 57 min.) here is the timetable - Japanese only.
    2. Ride the Kan Etsu bus from Nakanojou Station to Shima Onsen (40 min. 930 yen). Buses leave about every hour, here is the timetable.
  • by Shinkansen + Local Train + Bus - Costs around 6,060 yen and takes about 3 hours.
    This method is actual cheaper and slightly faster than the Ltd. Express above but you have to change trains once... or maybe even twice depending on train time schedules. If you plan it out well, this method is just as good as the Ltd. Express.
    1. Ride the Jouetsu OR Nagano Shinkansen from Tokyo Station or Ueno to Takasaki (5,130 yen | 51 min.).
    2. At Takasaki transfer to the Agatsuma Line bound for Manza-Kazawaguchi (760 yen | 54 min.). There are other trains you can take like the Jyouestu Line but you will have to transfer again at Shibukawa. Best to just plan on a direct train from Takasaki to Nakanojou.
    3. Get off at Nakanojou and ride the Kan Etsu bus from Nakanojou Station to Shima Onsen (40 min. 930 yen). Buses leave about every hour, here is the timetable.
  • Local Train + Bus - Costs around 3,520 yen and takes about 4 hours.
    This is the slowest method but if you don't have a JR Pass, this is the cheapest way to get to Shima Onsen by train from the Tokyo/Ueno stations.
    1. Ride a local (express) train from Ueno to Takasaki (1,940 yen | 1 h 40 min.).
    2. At Takasaki transfer to the Agatsuma Line bound for Manza-Kazawaguchi (760 yen | 54 min.). There are other trains you can take like the Jyouestu Line but you will have to transfer again at Shibukawa. Best to just plan on a direct train from Takasanki to Nakanojou.
    3. Get off at Nakanojou and ride the Kan Etsu bus from Nakanojou Station to Shima Onsen (40 min. 930 yen). Buses leave about every hour, here is the timetable.

Area Map

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Attractions

Here is a list of some of the top Attractions in & nearby Shima Onsen.

Gomuso No Yu

Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.

Closed: No closing days

Admission Cost: free (donations accepted)

Gomuso No Yu (御夢想の湯) is a small, free public bath house. It is thought to be Shima Onsen's original hot springs source. There is a footbath out in the front and donations help keep the place free and open to the public.

Yakushido Temple

Hours: N/A

Closed: N/A

Admission Cost: free

Yakushido Temple (日向見薬師堂 ) enshrines "Yakushi", the Buddha of healing and medicine. This little temple is next to the Gomuso No Yu public bath.

Shimagawa Dam / Lake Okushima

Hours: N/A

Closed: N/A

Admission Cost: free

Shimagawa Dam is a small dam that creates Lake Okushima (which is a man-made reservoir). It's not particularly that interesting (or beautiful) but if your in Shima Onsen in the Autumn and have a car, a drive around the lake can be nice. During the Autumn there are various waterfalls that cascade into the lake along with a public bath house.

Sekizenkan Ryokan

Hours: N/A

Closed: N/A

Admission Cost: 1,200 Day Bath use

Sekizenkan Ryokan is the #1 attraction to see in Shima Onsen. If you are staying at Sekizenkan, you can enjoy a true Japanese Onsen experience and take in all the beauty and culture this historic place has to offer. If you are just visiting, there are plenty of photo opportunities around the building and you can stop in and have lunch. Furthermore, visitors can enjoy the hot springs from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. for 1,200 yen (towel 850 yen or bring your own). Check availability at Sekizenkan Ryokan.

Ochiai Dori

Hours: from around 10:00 a.m. to evening

Closed: various

Admission Cost: free

Ochiai Dori is the "main street" of Shima Onsen. The shops are old "Mom & Pop" type stores and the area has an outdated, Japanese-retro feel. There are some small restaurants and old Japanese type game arcades. On weekdays and in the winter the street can be empty of people but during other season in the afternoon and evening you can see tourists and Onsen patrons out in the Yukatas visiting various shops.

Kawara No Yu

Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.

Closed: No closing days

Admission Cost: free

Kawara No Yu (河原の湯) doesn't look like much from the outside... even so much so as to think, "why would I go in there?". However, Kawara No Yu is an icon in Shima Onsen as it has been the main public bath in the area for centuries. Elder locals love to visit the onsen for nostalgic reasons and tourists visit it as it is a part of history. Bring a towel and enjoy a public bath the way town's folk used to in the old days.

Seiryu No Yu

Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.

Closed: 4th Wednesday

Admission Cost: 500 yen (for 2 hours)

Seiryu No Yu (四万清流の湯) is another public bath spot in Shima Onsen. It is a modern and clean facility that offers a great view of the Shimagawa River as you sit in the outdoor bath.

Kamagafuchi Gorge

Hours: N/A

Closed: N/A

Admission Cost: free

Kamagafuchi Gorge (嘉満ヶ淵) is a pretty small gorge cut by the Shimagawa River. Many people miss this attraction as it is a bit hard to find but look for a small wooden sign on the main road about 1,500 ft. (500 meters) south of Seiryu No Yu public bath.